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Pumpkins and squash are extremely similar in their needs. For best results, plant seeds in 4 inch pots, in the beginning of April. Seeds will not germinate if soil temperatures are below 56 degrees, so keep them warm. (low to mid 70's is best).

Plant one seed edgewise, about an inch deep. Any pots that fail to germinate, can be replanted for a second crop. Harden them off gradually, and plant them in the garden in mid May. It is best to wait until after a period of sunny weather to plant them so that the ground is nice and warm.

Seeds can be direct planted every 15 days or so. Plant 3 plants to a hill that has plenty of organic material mixed in, and add lime, well rotted manure, and a balanced time-release fertilizer a week before planting. Remember to be careful not to disturb the roots when planting. It is best to dig a small hole about 18 inches square, and 18 inches deep, put the manure in, some well rotted organic material, and good rich siol, mix it all together, and create the mound.

Cover the mound with black plastic, and cut holes into it for planting. This will keep weeds down, conserve moisture, and keep the soil warm, as well as keeps the fruit from resting on the ground and rotting.

Pumpkins and squash need lots of water, and are heavy feeders; especially when flowering occurs. Don't allow plants to become waterlogged. Pumpkins are shallow rooted, so water slowly with at least one inch of water per week if rainfall is not adequate. More water may be required during hot, windy summer days. Water during morning or early afternoon hours so foliage dries by evening. This helps prevent the spread of leaf diseases.

A foliar feeding program should be started after pollination and fruit set have occurred. There are several foliar fertilizers available. Follow label directions and continue application throughout the growing season.

Windbreaks might be necessary to protect young plants if they are in an exposed location, and are not fully rooted. Covering the vines at each node with soil will help anchor vines down and promote secondary root development. Pollination is best done by hand, to ensure a good crop. Many gardeners become confused because many blossoms do not set fruit.

You need to understand that there are male and female flowers and that only the female flowers produce fruits. For large pumpkins, only allow one or two fruit per vine. Toward the end of the growing season, remove any leaves that are shading the fruits. Don't remove leaves prior to good fruit development, as they are little sugar factories that are giving the plant the energy it needs to grow and develop.

Summer squashes of all types and varieties should be harvested when they reach a size of four to six inches long and 1.5 to 2.5 inches in diameter. This ensures high-quality fruit and additional fruit production. High-quality winter squashes and pumpkins should not be harvested until they are fully ripe.

Fruits subjected to a hard frost will not keep. When harvesting, be sure to leave an inch or two of stem, and set them in a cool, dry place for about 10 days so that the skins will harden. Cool weather will also cause them to increase their sugar content, and will be much sweeter.

Pumpkins should be harvested when they have a deep, solid color and the rind is hard. The vines are usually dying back at this time. Cover during a light frost and avoid leaving pumpkins out during a hard freeze to prevent softening.
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